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16 October 2023A Life of Food and Passion
In this concise memoir, the multi-Michelin-starred French chef shares insights into some of his motivations, inspirations and career highlights
Words: Dan Hayes
G rowing up in southwestern France in the 1950s, chef Alain Ducasse’s bedroom was above the kitchen of his parents’ farmhouse.
“We had no extraction or ventilation system so the smells would spread through the house and especially into my bedroom…" he notes. "In particular, I remember the smell of roast chicken, of sautéed veal, of vegetables cooking and dishes simmering. Those are the smells that made me want to cook.”
Today, 21 Michelin stars later, the culinary legend has captured his life and career in a concise autobiographical work: Good Taste, A Life of Food and Passion.
Within its pages Ducasse tells the tale of some the restaurants where he honed his craft, offers insights into signature dishes and shares memories of his business ventures.
Most interesting, though, in your reviewer’s humble opinion, are the moments when we see behind the globally renowned chef-entrepreneur to those decades-old inspirations.
“The first vegetable from my grandmother’s garden to make an impression on me were the peas," he explains. "A pea plant is perfect for less than a week, so you have to plant peas every eight days for several weeks. I loved, and still love, tasting peas from the garden…
"Just as I still love visiting vegetable gardens, learning, taking a leaf in my hand and crushing it, smelling it, tasting it…”
Therein, he adds, lies the reason for his enduring elevation of vegetables as a key thread in his dishes. “Thou shalt get closer to nature,” he writes, “and respect the seasons.”
At just 163 pages, this is hardly a tome, nor does it provide much more than a snapshot of the occasional recipe. However, for fans of Ducasse and his global impact on all things culinary, it’s an insightful little book that provides an interesting glimpse of one of the greatest chefs of his generation.
Good Taste, A Life of Food and Passion, by Alain Ducasse, is published by Gallic, price £16.99.