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Nestled into a corner of northern South Africa lies a 441-square-mile private nature reserve dedicated to restoring the Kalahari through sustainable conservation supported by nature-based tourism.
Words: Tim Griffiths, Images: Andrew Morgan
T he word Kalahari is derived from the Tswana word kgala, meaning ‘great thirst’. The desert bearing this title ranges across three countries – Botswana, Namibia and South Africa – extending for some 350,000 square miles.
While the Kalahari desert does indeed have its thirsty parts, there are a surprising number of semi-desert areas with huge tracts enjoying bounteous grazing after good rains. This most surprising of deserts plays host to an abundance of rare wildlife and, thanks to good management and a conservationist mindset locally, endangered and threatened species are reappearing and beginning to thrive.
A unique destination safari Tswalu Kalahari is a visionary conservation project with sustainability at its core. Tswalu's journey towards greater sustainability places equal emphasis on conservation, community, culture and nature-based tourism. With only three luxury safari camps on 114,000 hectares, it represents the lowest ratio of beds to hectares in South Africa.
Tswalu was founded in 1995 by English entrepreneur and conservationist, Stephen Boler, who bought dozens cattle and sheep farms with a view to regenerating the terrain with native fauna. Boler, the founder of the Kwik-Fit chain along with a kitchens and bathrooms business in the United Kingdom was, at one stage the largest shareholder in Manchester City FC.
He was to pass away in Johannesburg from a heart attack in 1998 at the dreadfully early age of 55.
Boler’s will specified that Nicky Oppenheimer, a South African billionaire businessman and formerly the chairman of De Beers diamond mining company and also the deputy chairman of Anglo American a company finding ways to find ways to move the world towards a more sustainable future via mining and its products, be offered first refusal to buy the property.
The Oppenheimer family has directed much of its philanthropic efforts towards preserving the heritage and cultural importance of the Southern African region, as well as to broader community upliftment in the areas of education, health, nature conservation and the arts.
They sold their stake in De Beers in 2012 and now own Oppenheimer Generations which is a collection of businesses and non-profits.
With only three luxury safari camps on 114,000 hectares, it represents the lowest ratio of beds to hectares in South Africa
‘From an ecological perspective, it’s returning the Kalahari to itself,’ says Jonathan Oppenheimer, Nicky’s son and a board member and owner of Tswalu.
In order to pay for the reserve’s conservation model the family looked to high-end tourism. Their first property was Tarkuni (the Oppenheimers' former holiday home), located in a secluded valley below the Korannaberg mountains. This is an exclusive-use, private homestead with accommodation for a maximum of 10 guests in five suites under one roof with a dedicated host, private chef on hand and a private safari vehicle, guide and tracker.
The second property is Motse, designed with individual couples and families in mind and accommodating a maximum of 18 adults across nine suites. More traditional than Tarkuni the communal guest areas (including two swimming pools and a fire pit for sundowners) encourage the sharing of experiences.
Now though, these two properties have been complemented by Loapi, a light-footprint tented camp with six safari homes offering the ultimate private wilderness experience. Tswalu is unique in that it has a foundation dedicated to research that informs conservation decisions. Guests are encouraged to interact with scientists and post-graduate students in the field. Those who choose Tswalu become part of a bold, regenerative, conservation vision to protect vital habitat and restore biodiversity, positively impacting the planet and its people.
Designed to exacting environmental standards by Cape Town architectural firm GAPP Architects, it offers a true wilderness experience in the largest privately protected area in South Africa. The camp is unique in that guests don't share any communal spaces. Instead, there are six private safari homes, each an exclusive-use retreat or independently run micro-camp.
With expansive views across arid savannah grasslands, the Loapi tented camp's private safari homes are tucked into the contours of the ancient Korannaberg mountains and can accommodate two or four guests for the ultimate private wilderness experience. The light-footprint of the design speaks to being suspended between earth and sky as reflected by the word loapi which means ‘the space below the clouds’ in the local Setswana language.
‘The overarching design philosophy was that the new camp needed to be as low impact as possible, to reflect Tswalu's ongoing commitment to sustainability and the owners' vision of regeneration of the environment,’ said Sally Tsiliyiannis, of GAPP Architects. The modular design, combining canvas, steel and glass, was largely manufactured off-site to minimise the environmental impact and protect the iconic shepherd's trees.
‘The main design intent was that, should it ever be required, it would be possible to take the built structure apart and cart it away, leaving the environment exactly as it was found,’ says Tsiliyiannis.
The light-footprint of the design speaks to being suspended between earth and sky as reflected by the word loapi which means ‘the space below the clouds’ in the local Setswana language
Designed as contemporary glass and steel pavilions, the living and dining areas form the heart of each home, together with an open-plan kitchen, fully stocked pantry, and bar. Deep, shaded decks feature day beds for relaxation, a water-wise plunge pool, and a fire pit for sundowners and early morning coffee.
The bedrooms are cocoon-like sanctuaries under canvas, connecting guests to the sights and sounds of nature while providing exceptional comfort and insulation from the Kalahari's extreme temperatures. The sophisticated tented design incorporates generous overhangs, providing ample shade and reducing the need for excessive energy consumption.
The camp features further minimal-impact, eco-friendly solutions, including the latest in solar power and water recycling technology, energy-efficient air conditioning, and solar-powered pool pumps.
‘Embracing a true wilderness experience, Loapi speaks to a much-needed change of pace for unscripted time in nature, with space to breathe out, be present and reconnect with what truly matters,’ says Russell Binks, the camp’s marketing director. ‘Inspired by the nomadic spirit of camping, the tented homes offer complete freedom to explore the reserve's vastness and diversity at your own pace, knowing that everything is being taken care of behind the scenes.’
Embracing an authentic, immersive Kalahari experience, guests have complete freedom to do whatever they want. The six homes (four one-bedroom homes, and two two-bedroom homes), span over 300 square metres and over 400 square metres, respectively, and are for those desiring complete privacy on safari.
The micro-camps are at least 50 metres apart to ensure privacy and solitude and each home comes with a private team that includes a homathi (butler) and chef, a private vehicle and the undivided attention of an experienced guide and tracker.
Guests can choose to spend all day tracking Kalahari keystone species, like the desert black rhino or brown hyena, visit nearby pans where resident black-maned lion prides converge, or take a picnic breakfast to the top of Bushman Hill where Hartmann's mountain zebra and greater kudu are often spotted.
The bedrooms are cocoon-like sanctuaries under canvas, connecting guests to the sights and sounds of nature while providing exceptional comfort and insulation from the Kalahari’s extreme temperatures. Most of all, Loapi provides the luxury of space and time to do nothing more than relax on the deck and gaze at the view, relishing the deep silence.