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Where do you go when the stomach rumbles and you fancy ‘an Italian’? Those who know, know and now you can join them.
T urn left out of Green Park tube station and saunter up the tony thoroughfare of Piccadilly, dodging the ubiquitous raindrops that seem to accompany you wherever you go in the UK and, after tipping your tile to the doormen at The Ritz, take a right at St James’s Street.
One road down, on your left, and you find yourself on the world-renowned Jermyn Street, London home of tailoring, and where you’ll trip over such iconic venues of central London as Tramp nightclub (where The Who’s drummer, Keith Moon, once managed to run up an extraordinary £14,000 bar bill) and Paxton & Whitfield, Britain’s leading cheesemonger for over two centuries.
Here, nestled into a double-fronted fascia between Beretta’s London flagship gun store and fine cobblers JM Weston and facing Davidoff’s impressive cigar outlet, sits Franco’s, a landmark Italian restaurant that has been one of the capital’s iconic dining establishments since the second World War.
An institution as much as a destination, Franco’s cannot, however, be labelled as institutionalised. Not many 75-year-old restaurants would buy into the world of veganism for example.
Whether we like it or not, climate change is upon us. Sure there are the flat-earthers and the anti-vaxxers who deny anything and everything to do with science. This sceptical minority, often the loudest voices, prefer instead to get their facts from that wellspring of deep truths – social media – rather than listening to researchers who have spent decades of toil to bring us their best advice. The rest of us though, who aren’t jaded by the incessant clamour and clanging of these morons, recognise that it's necessary for us do our part to ensure a habitable planet is left for the generations to come.
World Vegan Month was established in 1994 as part of the celebration of the 50th anniversary of the creation of The Vegan Society in the UK. With a continually growing understanding of how much strain human life is putting on Planet Earth, the notion of giving up animal-based products is a fairly simple way to ease the strain. Eating solely plant-based food every November won’t be the panacea for all ills but every little helps.
a landmark Italian restaurant that has been one of the capital’s iconic dining establishments since the second World War

Franco’s head chef, Stefano Turconi, adopted a plant-based lifestyle himself for three months and was surprised and disturbed to note the dearth of options when wanting to eat out. The restaurant has had vegan options for some time now but, on the back of Turconi’s experiences, it now offers full a la carte vegetarian and vegan menus with a wide range of options for both lunch and dinner.
Those of us who have dabbled and discarded vegetarianism in the past having been underwhelmed by the surfeit of tofu and Quorn, two ingredients that have next to no taste on their own and all the appeal of a mouthful of wallpaper paste, should seriously reconsider. Who wouldn’t salivate at the thought of a starter of burrata with roasted butternut squash and almonds or a beetroot carpaccio with rocket & ricotta and pecan nuts (both £14).
Suitably intrigued with tastebuds tickled from the first course, spaghettini with tomato and basil (£16), spaghetti with courgette, garlic and chilli (£22) or Castelmagno cheese and black truffle risotto (£38) are options to sway any dyed-in-the-wool meat-eater to the plant side of the ledger. There are side options aplenty too and the zucchini fritti (£7) are said to be among the finest in the whole city.
To round off these culinary delights there is a vegetarian tiramisu (£9.50) on offer sitting proudly on the menu alongside a vegan homemade gelato with sorbet (£8), a Sicilian cannolo with pistachio gelato or an Amaretto crème brulée with tuille (both £9.50).
If meat absolutely must be on your plate then the main menu at Franco’s is a smorgasbord of culinary delights. Who among carnivores could resist the siren song of an octopus carpaccio with fennel and orange (£16) to start followed by perhaps strozzapreti with wild boar (£24)?
Those of us who have dabbled and discarded vegetarianism in the past having been underwhelmed by the surfeit of tofu and Quorn should seriously reconsider
You won’t be short-changed when it comes to the accompanying wines either. Franco’s boasts a remarkable wine cellar and, just this year, has been awarded a Two-Star Wine List Award at the World of Fine Wine’s best wine lists awards.
There are high quality vintages and fine wines just waiting for the corks to be pulled but, really, what stands out are the rosés. Not only are they all superb but Franco’s has the largest collection of rosés in the UK just waiting for you to make your choice.
Franco’s is about as far removed from the stereotype of Italian eateries as it could be imagined. There are no gingham tablecloths to be found here nor wine bottles with dripping candles.
Instead, whatever time of day you come in, you are offered white tablecloths and sleek service. Of course, there are the obligatory pasta offerings such as would be expected from a restaurant with this bloodline, but the all-day menus offer far more than that and with great refinement.
Roll up at the opening time of 8am for a sumptuous breakfast or come for dinner (the restaurant closes at 11pm) and you will receive high-quality food for reasonable prices under simply excellent, relaxed and friendly service.
This well-established Italian favourite has survived and thrived for three-quarters of a century now and will surely flourish and prosper for many more years to come. It is inviting and warm and you will be welcomed like family.
Words: TG

Franco’s has the largest collection of rosés in the UK just waiting for you to make your choice
Franco's of London
61 Jermyn StreetLondon
SW1Y 6LX Tel: 0207 499 2211
Email Reservations
Franco's website Opening Times
Monday-Friday: 8am-11pm
Saturday: 10am-11pm


